The Dim Sum Trail: Royal China @ Raffles Hotel
0 Comments Published by andrea on Thursday, August 24, 2006 at 5:34 PM.The Good...
Steamed-dishes such as prawn and scallop dumplings are a safe bet. These tasty morsels are refined, exquisitely made, and pleasing to the palate. Similarly, the Cheung-Fun is a marriage of fresh ingredients and blanket rolls with the lightest, almost "melt-in-your-mouth" texture. Its standard is comparable to the Cheung-Fun at the fantastic Hakassan.
There are several non-steamed dishes that are outstanding as well. Notably, the char-siew puff pastry, filled with rich-tasting and tender char-siew pieces, has a superb light texture and crumbles at a bite. [This must be the best I've eaten in Singapore.]
Another must-try (if it happens to be on the specials menu during your lunch), is the baked fried rice with cheese. A refreshing re-interpretation of the traditional "he ye fan", the rice is first fried with the usual ingredients, then baked with a light cheese sauce. Served on a fragrant lotus leaf, the rice is surprisingly non-oily, and the cheese sauce is light, creamy, and mixes easily into the rice to coat each grain. The result? A mouth-watering, fragrant masterpiece.
L-R: Appetiser dish of pickles is light, tangy, and addictive; Honey-roasted pork is lean and tender
L-R: Char-siew puff-pastry is heavenly, perhaps the best in Singapore; The Royal China Cheung-Fun is equally divine. You get 3 thin blanket rolls of fresh prawns, char-siew, and fresh scallops, all drenched in light soy sauce and sesame oil.
L-R: Soft and tasty steamed spare ribs; Innovative coconut ice-cream in pumpkin puree with pulau hitam bits
The Bad...
At the other end of the spectrum, there are some "must-not try" dishes. These aren't really hard to swallow, but they are just uninspiring, and inferior to the same dishes you can get for less at East Ocean and Lei Garden.
In particular, Royal China's signature lobster noodles is memorable for all the wrong reasons. While the lobster was sweet and firm, the noodles are no better than what you'll get at your neighbourhood wanton mee stall. In fact, the slight alkaline taste of the noodles distracts your tastebuds from the natural flavour of the lobster. If you're ever curious what "cheap" tastes like, just try a mouthful of this stringy starch. Other dishes that deserve mention in this category include:
L-R: Silver Fish is too oily and the batter is so thick that it's all you taste; The mango pudding comes without taste - literally... it's bland bland bland!
And the Ugly...Duckling
There are mixed reviews on the Crispy Aromatic Duck, a favourite crowd-pleaser at Royal China's London branches. [I find it too dry and ordinary.] But whether you love or hate it, you'll have to agree that it's a $24 plate of "Ugly".
L-R: To keep its ugliness under wraps, the Crispy Aromatic Duck is served with Chinese pancakes, shredded spring onions and cucumber.
Verdict
The dim sum at Royal China appears to be more subtle and refined than the usual East Ocean, Lei Garden, Crystal Jade Palace fare. However, this doesn't mean that it tastes better. Overall, a pleasant place for high-quality dim sum if you order selectively. The steamed dishes and char-siew puff pastry here are definitely in a class of their own.
Recommended for:
Familes and dim-sum lovers
Ambience:
Much quieter than the typical chinese restaurant. You don't have to raise your voice to be heard, so it's a good place to enjoy dim sum and good conversation.
Cost:
With 15% discount for Citibank card holders, the bill comes up to less than $30 per person for a table of 5, based on the dishes pictured above.
Additional Info:
Pineapple buns (bo-luo pao) are served on alternate Sundays.
Egg tarts are available but not on the menu. Order them early as they sell-out fast.
Royal China at Raffles Hotel
1 Beach Road
Singapore 189673
Tel: 6338 3363
http://www.royalchinagroup.co.uk/
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